How to Build a Retro Arcade Cabinet: A Step-by-Step Guide

Building a retro arcade cabinet is a rewarding project that blends woodworking, electronics, and a love of classic games. Whether you want a full-sized upright or a compact bartop, this guide covers parts selection, construction basics, wiring, and software configuration so your cabinet looks great and plays smoothly.

"The best arcade builds focus on ergonomics: comfortable joystick and button placement matters more than cosmetics when you’re playing for hours."

Plan your cabinet

Decide whether you want a full-size upright or a bartop. Consider space, budget, and portability. Measure your intended location and plan the footprint. Sketch the design or download a verified plan to start — many communities share free CAD files for common monitor sizes and bezel layouts.

Parts list

• Cabinet wood (MDF or plywood) and screws
• Monitor or TV (typically 19" to 27" for most builds)
• Arcade joystick(s) and buttons (Sanwa or Seimitsu for authentic feel)
• Control encoder (USB interface for joysticks/buttons)
• PC or single-board computer (Raspberry Pi 4 or small form factor PC)
• Speakers and amplifier board
• Power supply and surge protector
• Marquee light (LED strips) and plexiglass for the bezel
• Artwork: vinyl wrap or printed marquee and control panel art

Construction basics

Cut panels according to your plan. MDF is cheap and easy to cut but heavy; plywood gives a nicer edge finish. Use 1/2" to 3/4" thickness for structural stability. Pre-drill screw holes and use wood glue at joints. Sand edges and apply primer before painting or wrapping.

Control panel layout

Ergonomics are essential. Standard layouts for two-player cabinets position joysticks around 8-10 inches from the center with a 2-3 inch spacing between buttons. Drill holes with a hole saw sized for buttons and mount the joystick using included screws. Test reach and comfort before finalizing the panel art.

Wiring and electronics

Connect buttons and joysticks to your encoder board using crimp connectors. Label wires to make troubleshooting easier. The encoder plugs into your PC or Raspberry Pi via USB and shows up as a gamepad. For power, use a single ATX power supply if running a PC; Raspberry Pi setups need only a dedicated 5V supply. Route cables cleanly and secure them with zip ties.

Monitor and bezel

Mount the monitor to a fixed bracket and create a bezel from plywood or 3D-printed components. For CRT aesthetics, many builders use scanline shaders on emulators or a small scaler to mimic the vintage look. Protect the screen with plexiglass if you plan to use vinyl artwork overlays.

Software and emulation

RetroPie, Batocera, and LaunchBox are popular options. On PC, RetroArch and MAME give granular control. Configure your controls in the emulator settings and remap buttons as needed. Use shaders and bezels sparingly to maintain performance. Keep ROMs legal by only using games you own or public domain software.

Finishing touches

Add a marquee light behind a translucent sign, apply vinyl artwork or a full wrap, and install speaker grilles for a clean look. Consider adding Bluetooth for wireless controllers or a second USB hub for future expansion. Test every control and game profile before final use.

Maintenance tips

Dust regularly and check button microswitches for wear. Keep spare buttons and springs on hand. Update your software and back up configs so your art and input mappings persist across updates.

Conclusion

Building an arcade cabinet is a customizable project that rewards care and patience. Start simple if you’re new to woodworking and electronics, and iterate on upgrades like lighting, coin doors, or bespoke art. Join builder communities to get advice and share progress — most builders are happy to help troubleshoot problems and celebrate results.

Build smart, play comfortably, and enjoy bringing classic games into your living room.